Manama

Over 100 years ago modern chemistry began to effect a revolution in the ancient art of perfumery. In 1875 the British chemist, Perkin, developed a cost effective method of synthesizing coumarin, a molecule found in the Tonka bean which yields a tenacious aroma of new mown hay. In 1884 Houbigant's Paul Parquet used coumarin in Fougerè Royale, a fragrance so successful it continued to sell for the next sixty years. By the early 20th century creative perfumers like Aime Guerlain, Jacque Rouche, François Coty, Robert Bienaime, and Ernest Beaux were discretely incorporating "state of the art" synthetics into their formulas thus creating the first "modern" perfumes.

The second half of the 20th Century, brought another shift in perfume composition. Whereas the perfumer's creative palate had been rapidly expanding thanks to new, laboratory-derived synthetics, now the perfumer's palate began to shrink due to the elimination of traditional naturals. Post World War II social changes increased wages and land values, boosting dramatically the cost of natural floral materials such as rose and jasmine. Animal cruelty concerns put a damper on the use of animal-derived odorants such as musk and civet, castoreum, and even ambergris. Environmental concern for trees shrank the supply and jumped up the cost of wood-derived essential oils such as sandalwood. Health and safety concerns banned or limited the use of various essential oils and absolutes including peru balsam, tree moss and grapefruit oil due to a new awareness of their potential for harm.

Little by little, economic forces, social attitudes, and health concerns have limited the use of natural materials that were once the heart of the perfumer's palate. Had it not been for chemists developing safer, more socially acceptable, and less expensive synthetics, by the year 2000, the art of creating fine perfume would have been dead, or driven underground to exist for the pleasures of the very rich and irresponsible alone. So I work quite hapily with synthetics.

But there are times when, if you are free to work by your own methods (and with your own money!) it is gratifying to reach deeper into your pockets and reach back into the past and make use of some costly natural materials that have become so rare in fine perfumes today. This brings me to roses and to Manama.

My interest in Manama (the city) was piqued by a fashion designer's ad boasting shops in "Paris, London, New York, Tokyo..." and "Manama" -- a fashion capital new to me. I was curious. And, after exploring the history and culture of this capital city of Bahrain, I found myself associating the name, "Manama", with a modern lifestyle rising from traditional roots, a freedom of families and young people to enjoy innocent pleasures — and roses. Roses are popular in Manama.

I developed Manama (the perfume!) around this interest in roses. I added lily of the valley, jasmine, and orchids to fill out the bouquet. I then placed this bouquet in a "vase" of exotic woods and resinoids, rich aromas so typical of this region and legendary since Biblical times. Like classic fragrances from the early 20th century, Manama was created by weaving together traditional naturals and modern synthetics.

In its use of natural materials, Manama is out of step with cutting edge youth trends. Manama was created for beauty, not science, and it owes its floral beauty in part to a touch of rose de mai absolute. As to its tenacity — its long life when worn — as least part of the explanation lies in its modest use of ... coumarin.

For just TWO CENTS (plus postage & handling) you can experience the delights of Manama yourself. Take advantage of the offer found below my signature.